Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Spiderman
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Pulino
I know I waxed rhapsodic about Paulie G's. And I want to go on record defending my words. Paulie G's crust is sublime, perhaps without equal.
But Pulino's pizza is better. There, I've said it.
OMG, their polpettine pizza, with bits of small italian meatballs and sprinkled with a sort of pesto of peppers is my new favorite pizza. In fact, my new favorite meal is: their polpettine pizza, with their toasted pumpkin salad (that's right, toasted pumpkin) with the hearty but somehow delicate canneloni. Heaven.
Let me do the rundown. This salad is by far my favorite salad anywhere these days. It is made with shredded red cabbage, frisee, pine nuts, the aforementioned small chunks of toasted pumpkin (ok, toasted pumpkin is seriously delicious) and a deeply felt smattering of pancetta with a light but super-flavorful vinegrait. The canelloni is cheese-rich. The pasta itself seems too delicate for the heft of it, yet somehow works perfectly.
But it is the pizza, the pizza that I dream about. We are talking daydreams and sleeping dreams. Talking driving dreams and walking dreams. I think it’s about he cheese/oil/sauce proportion. It develops a sort of fusion that you rarely see. I, for one, am always hoping for it--the pizza arrives and the air is pregnant with hope: the sum will be greater than its parts. Rarely does it happen. Yes, there is pizza with great crust, artisanal cheese, whatever. But the ethereal pizza born of the massive Italian Pulino ovens has achieved that elusive, elevated thing--it is a thing unto itself . It cannot be deconstructed. However--the oil infuses the crust, the cheese and oil seem to activate each other, the sauce sits with them in what feels like perfect harmony.
Has Keith McNally entered a sort of do-no-wrong zone? He has opened, in rather rapid-fire succession: Minetta Tavern, Morandi, and now Pulino. I should tell you that the place is crowded. All the time. And it's a little expensive for pizza. It's at Houston and Bowery. It attracts: hipsters, seekers of cool new places, art-y downtowners, foodies. It has an eight-top table that seems permanently reserved for groups of girls in their twenties.
Listen, the place is great. Go.